The Art of Risotto

Can I start with the language lesson? The second vowel in the word "risotto" is pronounced as in "hop", not "hope" (and yes, the same goes for "doppio" which has nothing to do with dope).

With that off my chest (I hate waiters who "correct" my pronunciation), risotto is a pure art form. Not only the preparation (broth added ladle by ladle and butter stirred in at just the right moment make for the creamy yet sticky texture with a nice bite inside the grains of rice--never walk away from a cooking risotto), but also the quality of your ingredients can make or break your dish. The rice, for instance, is not just your everyday rice (let alone parboiled), but has to be arborio (just about acceptable) or better yet, carnaroli or vialone nano semifino. Check with your local Italian specialist shop: if he doesn't love you for asking, find yourself another. The saffron in risotto alla milanese is real saffron, not that poor powdery substitute some try to sell you as such. The parsley is the tasty flat-leafed variety often called Italian parsley; the curly variety is all looks and no flavor. The cheese, finally, is something to never economize on: only real parmigiano reggiano will do, grated at home just before starting the dish. It all sounds like food fundamentalism, which in a way it is, but trust me: I've run tests with all matter of ingredients and had them tasted blind to all and sundry, and the difference is very much there. Right: off the pulpit and into the kitchen.

Risotto alla milanese

Serves 4

- 1 1/4 cup (10 oz) rice (vialone nano semifino, carnaroli or at least arborio)
- 2 large or 3 smaller onions, diced very coarsely
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 tbsp real saffron
- 1 quart chicken or veal stock (do not use cubes)
- 1/2 cup good quality white wine
- 2 oz parmigiano reggiano cheese
- Italian parsley, minced
- 3 + 1 tbsp butter
- olive oil, pepper, salt

Heat the stock to nearly boiling and reduce heat. Add half of the saffron. In a heavy, thick-bottomed pan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and one tbsp butter. Fry onion on high heat until translucent, reduce heat to half, add rice and fry until shiny. Add minced garlic and stir-fry for another few seconds.

Add wine, turn heat to high, bring to a boil and wait until almost absorbed by the rice. Add one ladle of the stock and wait until absorbed, then add the next and so on. Make sure the stock boils as soon as added and keep stirring with a wooden spoon. Taste regularly: the rice is ready when it is soft and creamy on the outside with a distinct bite on the inside. You will probably not use all the stock; save it for another preparation.

Remove from heat and stir, scraping bottom well. Now stir in the rest of the saffron, 3 tbsp of butter, one third of the grated parmesan and the parsley. Serve immediately in preheated pasta bowls, with the rest of the grated cheese in a separate bowl. In Italy, eaters will tuck in as soon as given their bowl, without waiting for others to be served. This is not bad manners, but respect for this delicate dish.